The following
pictures and directions should be used as a general
guideline and in no way represents every year/modification.
I will have a page of all the motor torque specs soon.
Parts
You will want to replace EVERYTHING when you replace the
belt. It costs more now but it will save you time and more
money later on.
timing belt - 24502982
tensioner pulley - 24503561 bolt - 10162013
idler pullies - 24503859 bolt- 11514441
tensioner actuator - 24503860
Walkthrough
Start
Remove 2 10mm nuts for fuel rail
cover
Remove Intake filter hose and PCV
hose
Remove 2 8mm bolts for spark plug
wire front cover. Also front valve cover vacuum line.
Unplug MAP sensor wiring and 2
plastic vacuum lines, 1 facing the front, one facing the
rear. Pull metal vacuum line now if you can, otherwise it
can wait till the plenum is unbolted.
Remove the throttle cables from the
throttlebody.
Remove coolant overflow, 1 10 mm
bolt and 1 10 mm nut
Remove front spark plug wires
Remove front and rear timing belt
inspection cover (2 8mm bolts)
Remove 7 10mm bolts holding plenum
down.
Remove PCV valve to plenum and
vacuum line beneath it.
Remove fuel line bracket to lower
intake with 10mm open end wrench. Also use pliers and a
screwdriver to remove Coolant line from beneath the throttle
body.
Heater core hose bracket at TB.
10mm Bolt.
Remove TB cables from the bracket
using a screwdriver to pry them out the side.
Remove brake booster hose. Also
remove the IAC and TPS wiring and remove plenum.
Remove vacuum line to oil
distribution block
Remove valve covers (4) 8 mm bolts
18mm wrench on tensioner to remove
serpentine belt
Remove Cam Cover (9) 8mm bolts.
Remove power steering line from
pump using 16mm wrench and screw driver. Leave them in place
for now.
Remove (3) 13mm bolts holding PS
pump in place
Put the lines into a plastic bag to
collect fluid.
Remove (2) 10mm nuts holding
plastic cover on passenger strut tower brace.
18mm wrench on tensioner again to
push it down so that the timing belt cover can be removed.
T-50 torx bit is used to remove the
idler pullies and tensioner (actuator) pulley. Hold the
serpentine belt tensioner down for the 3rd time after
pullies are removed to get the old belt off the drive belt
gear.
Remove (2) 13mm bolts holding belt
tensioner in place.
Retract the tensioner with a small
screw driver. There should be a plastic plug on the end of
the tensioner. Remove this and oil should come out (if not,
you will be adding oil anyway). Screw the tensioner back in
and then use a small paperclip though the rubber plug on the
side. There is a small hole in it for a paperclip to fit in.
You will have to back off the tensioner some to find the
hole inside the plug so the paperclip goes all the way in.
Picture is of the paperclip in place and the tensioner ready
for reinstall.
First use a 15mm socket to rotate
ALL cams with the flats face up. Then remove cam gear bolt
using cam gear holding tool and 15mm socket. The rear cam
gear will NOT come off without pulling the cam carrier on a
91-93 engine due to the lock ring setup. 94+ can remove all
4 cam gears easily.
Install cam flat tools on front
bank. Before installing the flat ont eh rar bank, you must
decide what timing you want the rear exhaust cam to be
(91-93 only, 94+ can install both cam flats now)
Pull cam gears off using cam gear
puller (91-93 only) to remove lock ring. Reinstall gears
without lock ring and put bolt back in but not tight. Leave
about 1/4" space between washer and gear.
Rotate crank to desired rear bank
timing using 15mm socket and wrench. 2nd picture shows the
timing mark on the dampener. To learn more about the timing
chain cover marks and relative timing, click here.
Engine torn down the most.
Reinstall starts here
Clean up any black hairs from the
previous belt. Put belt in place. Push serpentine belt
tensioner down again to put belt on the drive gear.
There are a few different ways to
get both idler pullies back in and the tensioner with
pulley. I prefer to put the tensioner in first (2) 13mm
bolts and then the T50 for the pulley. Make sure the nub on
the tensioner lines up with the socket part on the pulley.
Also make sure the paperclip stays in place for now. After
those are in, it is time to put the 2 idler pullies in
place.
Put the top idler pulley in after
the lower one. Do not install either bolt for the idlers
until BOTH are in place. You will need to manipulate the
belt some to get them in place due to the lip on the
backside of the pulley.
Now put the bolts in hand tight,
and then torque them down.
New belt in place.
Pull the paperclip from the
tensioner.
Apply 12-20 pounds of pressure on
the belt using a 3/8 extension and 11mm wrech
Stock timing setup
Install the lockring on the rear intake cam.
Pull the rear hold down tool.
Rotate the crank 360 degrees so that the rear cam flats are
now face down. The crank mark should line up with the arrow
on the timing chain cover. Install lock rings on the front
cams and remove the front hold down tool. Now both banks are
timed and its reinstall from here.
Altered timing, using 13* exhaust retard as example
Pull the rear hold down tool.
Using a dial indicator or any other method to accurately
measure/mark a depth, measure from the cam flat to the bolt
head holding the cam carrier to the head. It is either this
method or make a cam flat tool that will hold only 1 cam at
a time. When you rotate the crank over 360 degrees, the cam
might still move some. You will need to hold down the intake
cam still or measure it since only the exhaust will be
locked down during the intake cam timing
Rotate the crank 360 degrees to do the front exhaust cam.
Install the lock ring and then pull the cam flat tool.
Rotate the crank 347 degrees (watch the timing mark) and
verify the rear intake cam is flat. Install lock ring and
hold the cam gear in place with the cam gear holder. Repeat
for the front intake cam.
Now both banks are timed and its reinstall from here.
